All the information you need on Surfing
The watersport ‘surfing’ refers to a person riding a board on the crest of wave as it approaches the shore. Waves or swell are created when wind blows continuously over a long stretch of water, this is often referred to as the fetch. This explains why surf spots with large continuous waves are often located on coastlines that have access to a large ocean fetch with strong offshore winds and low pressure systems. However local conditions also have a huge affect on the type of wave produced, with a gentle offshore wind pushing the front of the wave to produce “barrel” and tube “waves”.
Wave shape, however is determined by the seabed behind the wave and directly below it. Different underwater topography varies greatly between different locations and this is especially true at beach breaks and sand breaks as they can change shape from week to week. Swell varies across the globe throughout the year and during the winter months heavy swells are observed in the mid latitudes, especially on the west coasts that encounter strong westerly winds pushing eastward. However this is interrupted at regular intervals due mid-latitude Cyclones that redirect swells towards the tropics. This being said East coasts can also experience heavy swells in the winter months, this is however only when low pressure cells approach from the sub-tropics.
In the summer months tropical cyclones under the influence of La Nina and El Nino create unpredictable and but heavy swells.
Artificial Reefs: Surf tourism and the growing popularity of surfing has encouraged the construction of artificial reefs and sand bars. However with any surf spot there is always the danger of a “flat spell” thus wave pools were invented to solve that problem. Wave pools do however have their problems and are extremely expensive to run thus only a handful of wave pools across the world have the power to generate ‘surfable’ waves; one such example is miyazaki in Japan.
Surfing has been going on for a long time and its history is rich. Surfers are always trying to evolve the sport taking it from riding wooden blanks to conquering some of the most inhospitable place on the planet.
Kai Lenny & Pato Teixeira invite you to discover the Jet Surf It’s first test in the powerful waves of Hawaii for the new form of surfing, jet surf. Find out about this new water motor sport, featuring one of the most ecological engines in the world that can make it up to 60 kmh thanks to an innovative technology, designed by Formula 1 engineer [...]